Beaujolais nouveau is a marketing marvel. Within just a few hours time, 65 million bottles of new (nouveau) wine find their way from the pastoral vineyards between Macon and Lyon to 150 countries around the world. Beaujolais nouveau celebrates its vintage debut the third week of November, just in time in the United States for Thanksgiving.

Traditionally, the wine arrives at its initial import destinations by plane, train, boat and truck. From there, it's taken to its final stops via horse-drawn carriage, limousine and hot-air balloon. The list of creative and spectacular party entrances is as endless as this seemingly limitless river of wine.

This year, in answer to the rising cost of fuel, no Beaujolais nouveau will arrive via air to its original import destination. Instead, the release date for this seasonal beverage was moved forward so that all product will have time to reach its import countries by more cost-effective means.

This is just one of a series of small and subtle changes taking place in Beaujolais. Beaujolais, like many Old World wine regions, is rethinking its position within the world of wine and trying to reinvent itself. This happy little wine is trying to tell the world that it is serious.

Seriously.

But first, it helps to put things into perspective.

There are two pivotal points in Beaujolais' history. In 1395, Philippe the Bold, duke of Burgundy, kicked the gamay grape out of the Cote d'Or. It settled in Beaujolais and put down permanent roots. In the 1950s, Paris adopted the Lyonnais tradition of drinking Beaujolais shortly after vinification, i.e. when it was fresh and new. After Paris, the world.

Beaujolais nouveau was the farmer's drink, a light red that slaked the thirst and soothed the soul after a long, hard growing season. Yep. Instant gratification, and in more ways than one. Fresh wine meant a lot during the tough period after the close of World War II, when France was in the desperate days of rebuilding. This early release was a financial assist of huge proportions. Beaujolais nouveau became the vigneron's cash cow. Between 1970 and 1990, Beaujolais accounted for one-third of the region's production.

Although historically considered a part of Burgundy (along with Chablis, the Maconnais, the Cote Chalonnaise and the Cote d'Or), Beaujolais decided to separate itself from Burgundy proper and create its own marketing and promotional materials when Beaujolais nouveau became a worldwide phenomenon.

But as Mother Nature says, never, ever put all your eggs in one basket. The bloom may very well be off the Beaujolais nouveau rose. Consumers these days grudgingly purchase the token bottle of nouveau. Those who do follow a relatively new tradition (40 years): Beaujolais nouveau and Turkey Day.

Nouveau is made differently than most other red wines. The grapes undergo a whole berry, enzymatic fermentation for a few days during which malic acid is converted into ethanol. A bevy of floral, fruity and highly perfumed aromatics develop too. These whole berries are then pressed. The resulting juice is converted into wine through the action of yeast as unfermented sugars are turned into alcohol. Since this fermentation takes place without the grape skins in solution, the finished wine is lightly pigmented with silken tannins. The wine is sappy, highly scented (all high notes) and considerably gulpable.

But critics frown at the aromas of "bananas" and "Band-aids" often found within the glass.

Luckily, there is more to Beaujolais than nouveau and more savvy consumers are finding it quite pinot noir-like. I guess you have to look at Beaujolais "sideways" these days, that is, you have to drink the Beaujolais Cru: St. Amour, Julienas, Chenas, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnie, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly.

These 10 appellations usually undergo more traditional fermentation from start to finish or a higher percentage of more traditional, yeast-driven fermentation practices. Gamay responds to this treatment with richer, fuller flavors; increased body, tannin and pigment, and deeper, more earthy aromatics. It becomes a more serious wine.

Luckily, it still maintains perfect suitability for turkey, stuffing and sweet potatoes.

Perhaps the Beaujolais nouveau phenomenon, an economic necessity turned golden goose, will settle into the archives of vinous history. For sure, it will linger on for a few more decades, but as savvy consumers taste what gamay can deliver on good soils with more traditional vinification, Beaujolais' future as a happy wine will be assured, and it will rest on more stable footing as a more serious beverage.

A few to try this Turkey Day:

Ch. Du Basty, Regnie 2006 ($17.99)

Soft tannins. Hints of iron, musk, strawberry and cranberry. Rich and concentrated. Totally delightful.

Dom. Du Pavillon de Chauvannes Cuvee des Ambassades Cote du Brouilly 2007 ($22.99)

Rich, ripe strawberry fruit with good acidity and satin tannins. Lovely.

Latour Brouilly "Les Saburins" 2007 ($16.99)

My fave. An indescribable panoply of strawberry, sour cherry, rose and earth. Gorgeous.

Ch. de Raousset Chiroubles 2006 ($19.99)

All sun-dried strawberries and summer flowers.

Lisa Airey is a certified wine educator.

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