Cucumbers are not the most nutritious veggies we can prepare for our three times seven delectations, but they have certain virtues that encourage us to keep using them, especially during the local season.

For one thing, the in-season price. For another, while they do contain a lot of water, they also offer a few nutrients we can use, like about 12 percent of the RDA for vitamin C -- in a half-cup/5 ounces or so -- and 10 percent of our folates, plus a bit of potassium, not to mention fiber.

Like most examples of what detractors like to call "rabbit food," cucumbers don't really provide much in the way of building blocks for our bodies, like protein and carbs. What they do afford, however, is an ingredient to use in dishes that perk up the "ordinary" we employ toward our balanced-meal goals.

Cukes, which are members of the melon family, are cool and crunchy and colorful, if the skins are left on (assuming they weren't coated with wax for shipping from far-flung parts of the world). And because they're so low in calories, they can be used virtually guilt-free, in soups, salads, salsas and more.

Eh, so OK, they are a little gassy. But just say "excuse me." As Dad used to say, "It's better to urp and burp and bear the shame, than squelch the belch and die of pain."

Cucumber soup

This soup is soothing yet with a bit of spice. It makes a lovely first course for an Indian-themed meal, with or without the tandoor oven. Or try it for lunch all on its own, with some naan bread and iced chai tea.

6 cups plain yogurt (use part "regular" and part non-fat if you can)

4 cups coarsely chopped cucumbers, about 15 ounces "regular" cukes or 13 ounces English hot-house cukes, divided

3 scallions, chopped

1/3 cup fresh mint, divided

1/4 cup fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons, chopped jalapeño peppers (seeds and pith removed; use rubber gloves, if need be)

If using regular cucumbers, peel, cut in half lengthwise, scoop out most of the seeds; if using hot-house cukes, no need to de-seed. Remove 1 cup chopped cucumbers and reserve.

Reserve some of the mint to use as garnish. In food processor, combine all ingredients, except the reserved cucumber and some chopped fresh mint. Taste for pepper and salt. Cover and chill until serving time, at least 2 hours.

To serve, ladle soup into 6 or 8 chilled soup plates. Divide some of the reserved chopped cucumber (about 2 tablespoons per serving) among the soups. Sprinkle each serving with some chopped mint. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Cucumber salsa

This is a colorful, personable fresh relish to use with simply seasoned grilled fish or chicken. Simply dollop it onto the finished product. Or, if you're feeling adventurous, shred the fish or chicken and wrap some up with shredded cheese, plus the salsa, inside some flour tortillas.

Make it a bit ahead so it has time to chill out.

2 cups finely chopped cucumber (with some skin left on, if purchased unwaxed)

3/4 cup finely chopped red bell pepper

1/3 cup each, finely chopped red onion and Vidalia onion

1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

4 teaspoons white vinegar

4 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons olive oil

In large bowl, mix all ingredients. Taste for pepper and salt. Chill a couple of hours for flavors to marry. Makes about 3 cups.

Red and green salad

This salad is a colorful, flavorful adjunct to grilled poultry or beef. It also makes a lovely side dish for a pasta primavera-type main course, as it's "sweetened" with sweet onions and honey, to mellow the whole and make it an interesting contrast to the pasta.

Roast the beets in the cool of the morning, then put the salad together about an hour before serving.

6 medium beets, trimmed

3 smallish cucumbers, unpeeled, skin scored with a fork, then cut into quarter-inch thick rounds

1/2 of a large sweet onion, e.g. Vidalia or Maui, halved lengthwise, then thinly sliced

1/4 cup honey

1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon coarse (country-style) Dijon mustard

About 1/3 cup vegetable oil

For the beets, heat oven to 400 degrees. Wrap each beet in foil, enclosing entirely. Place on rack in oven and bake tender when pierced with a fork, about one and a half hours. Cool in foil (about 30 minutes.) Peel beets, then cut into slices (at least 6 per beet).

On one half of a large platter, arrange beet slices, somewhat overlapping each other. Arrange cucumber slices on other half. Scatter onion in center. Cover and refrigerate a couple of hours (or serve at room temperature).

For dressing, in small bowl, whisk together honey, vinegars and mustard. Gradually whisk in oil so mixture emulsifies somewhat. Taste for pepper, and salt.

To serve, drizzle some of the dressing over salad. Pass the remainder on the side. Makes 6 or more servings.

Cucumber sandwiches

Cucumbers are classic ingredients in little sandwiches -- with their crusts cut off, of course -- that are mainstays of English high tea. These sandwiches are rather a far cry from the aforementioned. What helps make the humble cucumber a most satisfying co-star in these hearty sandwiches are their companions : perfectly fresh, local tomatoes, some focaccia toasts and a garlic-anchovy butter to spread on that bread.

Don't be afraid of negative comments on the anchovy content of the butter; most of your audience won't even notice.

We provide more than enough garlic butter; some to use, some for other goodies, like grilled beef or even striped bass or blue fish. If well wrapped, the butter will keep a week or so in the fridge.

Butter

1/2 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 large garlic cloves, minced

3 anchovy fillets, wiped dry with paper towels

Generous 1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce, e.g. Tabasco

4 teaspoons minced, fresh broadleaf (Italian) parsley

Sandwich

1 1/2 (10- x 8-inch size) loaves of focaccia, cut into 6 equal pieces (total), then each split horizontally

6 medium, impeccably ripe, preferably local tomatoes, thinly sliced into rounds

36 thin slices unpeeled hot-house (seedless) cucumbers

16 thin red onion slices

6 tender, red-leaf lettuce leaves

For butter, in a bowl, combine butter, garlic, anchovies and hot pepper sauce. Use a fork to mash mixture until almost smooth. Taste for pepper and salt. Mix in parsley.

For sandwich, heat oven to 325 degrees. Arrange bread pieces, cut sides down, directly on oven rack and bake until slightly crusty, about 5 minutes.

Arrange bread, cut side up, on a work surface. Spread cut sides with half of the anchovy butter (total). Arrange tomatoes, cucumber slices and onions on bottom halves of bread. Top with lettuce, then bread tops. Press down gently to help hold sandwiches together. Cut each sandwich diagonally in half. Makes 6 sandwiches.

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