While most everyone is concentrating on what protein source (a.k.a. meat, for many of us) to provide for dinner, there are those whose culinary assignments always seem to focus on the complementary comestibles that don't get the applause those meat preparations do.

Fact is, creative side dishes can be much more challenging than tossing a hunk of marinated flesh onto the grill and turning it every now and then. And among the ultimate culinary challenges is the care and feeding (to others) of the much-maligned zucchini and its paler cousin, the yellow squash or summer squash.

We've been down this road before. We've even grown zucchini, back in our stay-at-home days, when we did all we could to keep from being testy with our children. Confession: My children were not all GT (gifted and talented). Indeed, there were plenty of times they could've been classified as DB (downright bratty).

And speaking of confessions, one of them recently told me, with a big grin on her face, that she used to surreptitiously remove the paper-thin slices of seasonal zucchini I'd put into dinnertime salads, slip them into her socks and dispose of them in the trash in her room, which it was her responsibility to "clean." I was always impressed by how assiduously she emptied her waste basket every week.

But I digress. Our exercise du jour is to present some interesting preparations for zucchini and (yellow) summer squash, which may come in handy for your own entertaining needs and for those "directed" pot lucks, when the host tells you what category of dish to bring.

And they'll be even more welcome if you happen to live near an avid gardener whom you suspect -- but can't prove -- leaves bags of ripe zucchini on your front stoop during midnight raids.

As you prepare these dishes, keep in mind that zucchinis are virtuously a free "diet" food, containing as they do only about 14 calories in a half-cup of thin slices. Keep the skin on (for fiber) and choose small zooks, so you don't have to remove the seeds (more fiber). Basic prep is to wipe the skins clean, slice thinly into rounds or julienne strips and use them in salads (go ahead, try it) or in stir fries.

You can also combine green and yellow summer squashes for eye appeal.

Zook salad

This side dish allows you to use up quite a few summer squashes. It's quick to fix, too, although it does need some standing time. It should be served at (indoor) room temperature, meaning it doesn't really need refrigeration.

Dressing

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon country-style (grainy) Dijon mustard

About 1/3 cup olive oil

Generous 1/2 cup thinly sliced fresh basil leaves

1/2 cup paper-thin red onion slices

Squash

1 1/2 pounds small zucchini and yellow squash, trimmed, cut in half lengthwise, then cut crosswise into half-inch slices

For dressing, combine lemon juice, zest and mustard. While whisking, drizzle in most of the olive oil. Taste for oil/acid balance. Adjust. Stir in basil and onion slices. Taste for pepper, and salt. Let stand about an hour for flavors to meld.

For squash, steam in medium pot over boiling water just until they're crisp tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and cool. Add dressing and toss to coat. Let stand 1 hour for flavors to marry. Stir often. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Corn and zook sauté

Here's a Tex-Mex approach, in which boring zucchini takes on a whole new personality and can liven up simply grilled chicken, for instance. It also helps you use up leftover steamed corn (but you can also use frozen corn).

This is a simple dish to prepare; the major pain is roasting the chilies and bell pepper.

2 large poblano chilies (those light green "mild" chili peppers, sometimes called pasillas)

1 medium red bell pepper

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

6 medium zucchini (about 3/4 pound), trimmed, cut into half-inch pieces

1 medium onion, halved lengthwise, sliced very thin

4 large garlic cloves, minced

4 cups corn kernels (thawed, if using frozen)

Use the outdoor grill or indoor broiler to char the skins on the chilies and red bell pepper. Char on all sides, then enclose in a paper bag for about 10 minutes. Peel and seed chilies and red pepper. Cut into half-inch pieces.

In large heavy, non-stick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add half the zucchini and sauté until brown, about 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer squash to a bowl. Repeat with remaining zucchini.

Wipe skillet clean. In skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high. Add onion and garlic and sauté until onion begins to soften, about 4 minutes. Add prepared chilies and red pepper and stir until heated through, about 3 minutes. Stir in zucchini and corn. Reduce heat to medium, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes (this melds flavors and, if using frozen corn, helps cook it). Taste for pepper, and salt. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Hidden treasure cake

And when they ask you to bring a dessert to the pot luck? Here's a sweet treat that provides a fancier approach than did that humble zucchini bread we used to make all the time.

This bundt cake takes a minimum amount of time to put together, but it does need the oven. So, in summer, make it early in the day.

If you really don't want anyone to know there's zucchini in your cake, peel it first and just use the white flesh. Either way, grate zucchini onto paper towels so as much liquid from the squash as possible can be absorbed before being added to batter.

Serve with anything from fresh berries and/or melon to fruit sorbet or even gelato.

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting pan

1 teaspoon baking soda (make sure it's fresh)

1/2 teaspoon baking powder (fresh)

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 sticks unsalted butter, softened

1 cup packed light brown sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (fresh)

3 large eggs, at room temperature

2 generous cups coarsely grated zucchini, including skin (see hint, above)

1 1/4 cups semi sweet chocolate chips

1 cup toasted, chopped walnuts

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Use some of the butter (or use shortening, like Crisco) to lightly grease a bundt pan or tube pan. Flour the pan, too, knocking out any excess.

In medium bowl, sift together flour, baking soda and powder, and salt. Keep handy.

In another bowl, stir together zucchini, chocolate chips and walnuts. Set aside.

In a large bowl, use an electric mixer (on high speed) to beat together butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy. Reduce mixer speed to medium and beat in eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition and scraping down sides of bowl now and then. Beat until very smooth, light and fluffy, about 2 more minutes.

Reduce speed to low and add all but a half-cup of the flour mixture. Mix only until just combined.

Use the reserved half-cup of flour mixture to toss with the zucchini, chocolate chips and walnuts. Add to batter. By hand, with a rubber spatula, stir in the zucchini mixture until well incorporated. Don't over-mix.

Stir batter into prepared bundt pan. Smooth top. Bake in middle of oven, rotating pan on shelf about halfway through baking time. Bake until cake begins to pull away from sides of pan and tester comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes total.

Cool cake in pan on rack for 30 minutes. Run a thin knife around outer and inner edges, then invert cake onto rack to cool completely.

If you wish, sift a little confectioners sugar over top of cooled cake before slicing. Or, make a confectioners sugar drizzle and add that just before serving. Makes about 10 servings.

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