THE FRONT BURNER

You have your ice cream maker handy, don't you? Good. Because today's exercise is about a to-die-for Italian treat for which you need an ice cream freezer if you intend to make your own.

Gelato is the word. Say it with me: "Jell AH toe." Italian for rich, creamy, dense ice cream.

One reason many gelatos are so creamy and thick is the presence of eggs and/or cream, which impart the mouth feel that we all adore. Yet, not all gelato -- even in Italy -- is made with eggs and/or cream. In Sicily, for instance, word has it that the gelatos are thickened with cornstarch.

Here, we offer you some choices. Which, of course, is a true American tradition. Happy Independence Day!

Chocolate gelato

Here's one of the ones that uses cornstarch as a thickener. If desired, add a half-cup of toasted, finely chopped almonds or pecans when stirring up the cornstarch mixture.

Serve in pretty bowls, or cones. Offer almond cookies on the side, for crunch.

3 cups cold, whole milk (don't use anything less than whole milk), divided

1/4 cup sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch (make sure it's fresh)

Pinch of salt

1/2 cup finely chopped, toasted (and cooled) slivered almonds or pecans, optional

7 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) chocolate, finely chopped

In a large, heavy saucepan, over medium heat, bring 2 1/2 cups of the milk to a boil, stirring frequently.

In a small bowl, whisk together sugar, cornstarch, salt, nuts (if using), and 1/4 cup of the milk. When milk in pan is boiling, whisk the cornstarch mixture into the hot milk, then bring back to a boil, whisking constantly. Boil, whisking, for 3 minutes. Mixture should be very thick. Remove from heat to a medium bowl.

In a small saucepan, bring the remaining 1/4 cup milk to a boil, whisking. Put chocolate in a small heat-proof bowl. When the 1/4 cup milk is boiling, pour it over the chocolate in the bowl. Let stand until chocolate melts, about a minute, then whisk until smooth.

Stir the melted chocolate mixture into the cornstarch mixture and whisk to blend well. If there are lumps, gently force mixture through a sieve. If using nuts, you don't have to force them through the sieve.

Cool slightly, but stir frequently while cooling so that a "skin" doesn't form over mixture. Cover surface of mixture with wax paper and chill until cold, about 2 hours.

Place mixture in container of an ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's directions. Can make up to 3 days ahead. Let soften at room temperature about 5 minutes before serving. Makes about 1 quart, or 8 (small, rich) servings.

Coffee gelato

Cornstarch again. But yummy. This goes iced coffee one better.

3 tablespoons dark rum

2 teaspoons almond extract

2 tablespoons instant coffee granules (can use instant espresso if you like)

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

Pinch of salt

2 1/4 cups whole milk

In small bowl, combine rum, almond extract and coffee granules. Mix until coffee dissolves.

In medium saucepan, over medium heat, whisk together sugar, cornstarch and salt until no cornstarch lumps remain. Gradually whisk in milk and cook, whisking often, until mixture thickens and boils, about 5 minutes.

Remove from heat. Whisk in coffee mixture. Cover surface with wax paper. Cool 30 minutes, then refrigerate until cold, about 2 hours.

Transfer to an ice cream maker and process according to manufacturer's directions.

Makes about 8 small servings.

Hazelnut gelato

Here's a gelato that relies on egg yolks and heavy cream for its rich mouth feel.

Hazelnuts (aka filberts) are sooo Italian, it seems. You may be able to score already shelled nuts, which is a big leg up.

Since the gelato is nutty, you'll probably want something chocolate-y to go with it. Or try it with seasonal melon and/or berries.

1 cup hazelnuts (about 5 ounces), toasted

1/4 cup sugar

Pinch of salt

2 1/2 cups whole milk

1/3 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon almond extract

4 large egg yolks, at room temperature

1/3 cup sugar, divided

To toast hazelnuts, place on a cookie sheet and toast in a 350 degree oven for about 7 minutes, until golden. Cool before using in this recipe.

For gelato, in a food processor, place cooled hazelnuts, sugar and salt and pulse-process until finely chopped. Remove to a 3-quart saucepan and add milk and heavy cream. Heat over medium until just at a simmer, stirring occasionally.

Remove from heat, add almond extract, cover and let stand for about 45 minutes, to impart the hazelnut (and almond) flavors to milk mixture. Pour through a sieve into a bowl and press hard to extract solids. Discard solids. Keep sieved mixture handy.

In a medium bowl, using an electric hand mixer, beat together egg yolks and sugar until thick and pale, about 3 minutes. Beat in sieved hazelnut/milk mixture, then transfer to a clean saucepan over medium-low heat.

Cook mixture, stirring constantly, until it reaches a simmer (about 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer). You do not want egg yolks to cook/curdle, so do not let mixture boil.

Immediately pour custard through a clean sieve into a metal bowl and set this bowl into a larger bowl, which you have lined with ice cubes and cold water. Cover custard and chill until cold.

Freeze in an ice cream maker, following manufacturer's directions. Makes about 1 quart.

Zabaglione gelato

Pronounced "zah bah lee YOH nay," this classic Italian custard sauce is wonderful in and of itself and is often served warm over cake and fruit. As it turns out, zabaglione gelato can be just as wonderful served cold. Some chocolate/almond biscotti are pleasant companions for this gelato.

Our method for thickening the yolks without curdling/cooking them -- which is a disaster, in this case -- is similar to that used in the hazelnut gelato (above), except that we use a double boiler (of sorts).

1 1/3 cups cold, whole milk, divided

4 large egg yolks

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup dry Marsala wine

Pinch of salt

In medium stainless bowl, combine 1/3 cup of the milk, egg yolks, sugar, Marsala and salt and whisk to blend. Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water (do not allow bowl to touch water). Whisk until thick and thermometer registers 160 to 165 degrees (no higher), about 5 minutes.

Remove bowl from water and whisk in remaining 1 cup milk. Cover surface of custard with wax paper and let stand 15 minutes. Place in refrigerator and chill until cold, about 2 hours.

Transfer to ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's directions. Can be made up to 3 days ahead. Keep frozen until about 5 minutes before serving time. Makes about 8 servings.

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